Wax-thread sewing-machine



i 2sheeias-s'het 1. H. F. NASON. I Wax-Thread SeWing-Maghi1re.A

No. 227,288. Patentedv MayV 4, 1.8.80.

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N.PEIERS, PHOTO-uTMoGRAPHER, WASHINGTON D C E Is ` UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE.

HORACE F. NASON, OF NATICK, MASSACHUSETTS.

WAX-TH READ lS'EWI NG-MACHINE.

SIEECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 227,288, dated May 4,1880.

Application filed December 15, 1879.

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, HORACE F. NASON, of Natick, in the county ofMiddlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Wax Thread Sewing-Machines, of which thefollowing, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is aspecification.

My invention relates to improvements in wax-thread sewing-machines,whereby such machines are adapted to do special work, such as sewingshoe or brogan counter-stiffeiiers to the quarters or boot-straps totheir legs.

In the manufacture of brogans the heelstiffeners have to be sewed aroundtheir upper edges to their quarters, and to do this upon thesewing-machines now in use the stiffener has to be tacked to the quarterby two or more nails, and the outside of the quarter has to be markedwith a line to locate and serve as a guide for the stitching, and thesewing is d'one with the quarter placed in the machine with thestiffener side downward. This requires considerable labor in thepreparation of the work, which is saved by the use of my improvedmachine,'besides entirely dispensing with the use of lthe tacks, whichoften are so carelessly located as to be struck by the needle in sewingand render it unlit for further use, or, as the tacks are seldom removedbefore lasting the shoe,the tack may be troublesome in lasting, or maybe in a position to be in sight above the heel or sole when the shoe islasted, thereby injuring` the shoe.

The same extra labor in the preparation of the work applies to sewing onthe straps-of boot-legs, which require to be placed in position andtacked, and marks to be made upon the outside of the leg as a guide insewing.

The object of my invention is to obviate this unnecessary labor by soconstructing the sewing-machine that the work may be placed in themachine with the stiffener or strap side up, without previous tacking ofthe parts together, and sewing them together, guiding the Work by theedge of the stiffener or strap; and it consists in certain novelarrangements and constructions of the operative parts of thesewing-machine, which will behest understood by reference to thedescription of the drawings, in which- Figure l is a front-end elevationof a machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a sectional sideelevation. Fig. 3 is a vertical transverse section on line :v on Fig. 2.Fig. 4 is a detail, showing the awl-bar, threadguide bar, and the standin which they have theirbearings in plan, with the yielding throatplatebar cut in section. Fig. 5 is a vertical section `through the frontportion of the gooseneck on line y y on Fig. Fig. 6 is a horizontalsection on line z z on Fig-5. Fig. 7 is a horizontal section on line oyv on Fig. 3. Fig. S'is an elevation `of the back or inner side of thefeed-bar; and Fig. 9 is an elevation of the cast-off rbar, withtheadjustable lugs by which it is moved shown in section.

A is the tableor bed of the machine, from the right-hand end of whichrises the gooseneck B, firmly secured thereto in any wellknown manner,and having mounted in bearings formed in its upper portion the shaft G,to the rear end of which is secured the eccentric D, grooved cone-pulleyE, and .the hand- Wheel F, all constructed and applied -in a wellknownmanner.

rJhe shaft Oalso hasfformed upon or secured to its front end thecrank-disk G (the periphery of which ,is concentric with the axis ofsaid shaft) and the eccentric H, placed in the rear of said disk, but inclose proximity thereto, the purpose of which will presently appear.

I is the feed-bar, having `formed in its back or inner face ya verticaldovetailed groove, c, to receive a :correspondingly-shaped block, J,pivoted by the thumb-screw K to the gooseneck B, and adapted tobe-adjusted to a higher or lower level, to vary `the feedby moving saidscrew up or down in the slot b.

AThe feed-bar I has formed in its upper .end a recess, c, :extendingabout half-way through said bar, of aheight just equal to the diameterof the disk G and a length horizontally equal to the diameter of saiddisk plus the throw of the eccentric H, and through the remainingportion iof the thickness of said feedbar is cut a slot, d, having ahorizontal width just equal to the diameter of the eccentric and avertical height equal to or in excess of the diameter of said eccentricplus its throw, by which arrangement the feed-har has imparted to it thenecessary lateral movementabout its IOO pivotal connection to thegoose-neck without vertical movement.

L is the needle-bar, having a bearing nearly its ventire length in thefeed-bar I, in which it may be reciprocated by means of the connecting-rod M and crank-pin Vc, set in the disk G, and has set in its lowerend the barbed needle f, said needle-barbeing so set in said feed-barthat when the feed-bar is in such a position that the point of theneedle is at the extreme of its movement toward the front the needle andneedle-bar shall be in a vertical position, or, in other words, so thatthe lateral move- -ment of' the needle for feeding the work shall Valways start from the same point, whatever may be the length of saidmovement.

N is the cast-oft' bar, having its bearing in the feed-bar l, and havingset in its lower end the cast-o f', secured in position therein by theset-screw g, and adapted to be adjusted laterally by means of theset-screw l1., the inner portion of the lower end of said bar being cutaway, as shown in Figs. 3 and 9, to permit the shank ofthe cast-oft' tospring for that purpose.

One side of the cast-oft' bar N has formed thereon a series of teeth orserrations extending laterally across it, with which corresponding teethor serrations on the rear sides of the two adjustable lugs t' 'i'engage, said lugs being secured to said bar by screws passing throughslots formed therein, and said lugs project through the slot j in thefeed-bar I, and are acted upon alternately by the short arm or toe 7c ofthe connecting-rod M to move said cast-oft' bar up and down, said barbeing held at either extreme of its movement until acted upon by saidtoe bythe friction-pads Z l', acted upon by the spring fm.

O is a xed presser-foot or resistance-plate attached to the goose-neckB, and having cut through it a slot, n, for the passage of the needleand cast-off, and of sufcient length to permit the feed of the materialby a lateral movement of the needle while it is in the goods. Directlybeneath this presser-foot or resistance-plate is a yieldingthroat-plate, o, attached to the upper end of the bar l?, which has itsbearings in the stand Q, bolted to the under side of the table A, and isforced upward by the tension of the spring P', to force the work againsttheresistance-plate or presserfoot O.

R is the awl-bar, mounted in bearings in the stand Q, and carrying inits upper end the awl p, which pierces the work from the under and faceside thereof, as the bar R is moved upward by lever S, pivoted at q, andconnected to said bar by its forked front end embracing a lug, r, formedupon or secured to the side of said bar, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3,motion being applied to said bar by the eccentric D acting upon theeccentric-rod D', leading therefrom to and connected with the rear endof said lever S.

A pawl, s, is pivoted to the awl-bar R, and its point engages withratchet-teeth t, formed upon or secured to the side ofthe throat-platebar]?,to move the throat-plate o downward and relieve the pressure onthe work while the work is heilig fed, said pawl being prevented fromengaging with said teeth during the iirst part of the downward movementof .the awlbar by the shield or guard-plate u, interposed between thebars P Iand R, and against which the toe of the pawl s isforced by thetension of a spring, a', all as shown in Figs. 3 and 7.

The thread guide or looper b is set in the upper end of the verticalrocker-shaft T, which has its bearings in the stand Q., and is' movedaround the needle to guide the thread into the proper position to becaught by the barb of the needle as it is drawn up by means ot' a studor pin set in the side ot' the lever S acting upon the cam-slot c', cutin the lever U, pivoted at el', and connected at its opposite end to oneend of the link V, the opposite end of which is connected to the shortlever e', formed upon or secured to the rocker-sh aft T, as shown inFigs. 2 and 7.

The stroke of the needle may be varied by adjusting the crank-pin e to agreater or less distance from the axis of the shaft C by means of thenut-block f2, fitted to a mortise in the edge of the disk G, and adaptedto be moved radially therein, the' crank -pin c passing through a radialslot in the face of said disk and being screwed into said block in awellknown manner. By this arrangement of the parts-fi. e., an awl topierce the work, a yielding throat-plate, and a thread-guide, all placedbeneath the work, a barbed needle, a cast-off, and a fixed presser-footor resistance-plate placed above the work, and a fixed or stationarytable upon which the work rests during the operation of sewing- I amenabled to sew many kinds of work at a great savin gin time andlabor ascompared with the machines now in use, and do equally good work--as, forinstance, counter-stiffeners may be sewed to the quarter without beingtacked thereto, as heretofore practiced, the counter being simply laidupon the quarter in proper position and the quarter and counter placedon the table beneath the presser-foot O, with the counter at the top andthe yielding throat-plate o pressing against the under side of thequarter. The sewing may then be completed without further preparation,the operator using the edge of the counter, which is in full view, ashis guide to determine the location of the stitching, and, as aconsequence, the direction that the work should have given to it duringthe sewing. The awl pierces the work from below, and consequently fromits face side, in conjunction with the barbed needle working from theupper side and drawing up the loop of the stitch to said upper side ofthe work, which is also the inner side when worked into a shoe. Thismakes a nice handsome stitch upon the under or face side of the work.

The yielding throat-plate o is depressed to a greater or less extent,according to the thickness of the stock to be sewed, and is moved IIO-plate u.

downward from such position a sufficient distance to permit the freemovement of the work by the lateral movement of the needle by theengagement of the pawl s with the highest tooth of the ratchet-teeth t,which appears below the lower edge of the shield or guard- 'Ihe throw ofthe cast-off may be varied at will by adjusting the lugs i and 'i' uponthe cast-off bar N.

What I claim as new. and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the'United States, is

l. The combination, in a waxed-thread sew ing-machine, of a tix-edtable, upon the upper surface of which the work may rest while beingsewed, a xed presser-foot or resistanceplate provided with a slot forthe passage of' the awl and needle, a barbed needlc,.and a castot', alllocated above said table, and an awl to pierce the goods, a yieldingthroat-plate provided with an opening` for the passage of the awl andneedle, and a thread-guide, all placed beneath the table, and mechanismadapted to impart the necessary motions to the needle, cast-oft', awl,and thread-guide, substantially as described.

2. The shaft C, provided with the eccentric H and the concentric diskGr, in combination with the pivoted feed-bar I, provided with the recessc and slot d, all constructed, arranged, and adapted to operatesubstantially as and for the purposes described.

` 3. In a sewing-machine, the combination of the cast-oft' bar N,provided with the lugs t' and z",tl1e needle-bar L, connecting-rod M,pivoted to said needle-bar and provided with the laterally-projectingarm or toe k, and mechanism for operating said connectingrod,substantially as'described. p

' 4. In a sewing-machine, the combination of the cast-off bar N, havingformed on one of its sides a series of teeth or serrations, theindependently-adj ustablelugsz'and i,also provided with teeth orserrations and having slotted vertical portions, as shown, screws foradjustably securing said lugs to said bar, the ncedlebar L, itsconnecting-rod M, provided with the HORACE F. NAsoN.

Witnesses:

C. H. Donn, W. E. LOMBARD.

